All and sundry knows Salvador Dali to be the initiator of surrealism in painting, but not everyone knows who pioneered the surrealistic images like fruits, vegetables, animals or the household items to be printed on garment pieces. Italian noblewoman Elsa Schiaparelli once commenced that crazy surrealism in the fashion world originating the “shocking rose” shade, the Cocteau eye brooch, the idea that lobster + parsley wisp combination on a gown is some pumpkins up to seizing the queen’s attention and so on and so forth. And today in Paris the newly appointed creative director of the luxury fashion house Bertrand Guyon is going back to the roots of the house, touching all the tastes, preferences and niceties of its founder and bringing them into life via the newly unveiled Schiaparelli Couture spring/summer 2016 collection.
As the creative director of the fashion house himself states, the main thing that has aroused inspiration to present what he presented today in Paris during the runway show is the fragment about eating found in the autobiographical book of Elsa Schiaparelli “Shocking Life”: “Eating is not merely a material pleasure. Eating well gives a spectacular joy of life and contributes immensely to goodwill and happy companionship. It is of great important to the morale”.
The result we see is a delicious dinner party starting from table-ware to appetizing food. The show opens with a floor-touching gown standing between very plain design in sense of tailoring but with very unusual one in sense of embellishing. The dress all covered with china plates, wineglasses and a bottle of wine is a nod that the feast has kicked off, open-heartedly declaring “Everyone at the table!”
The table is gradually being replenished with wisps of cherries when a white skirt suit is forwarded down the runway, with a plethora of vegetables like pumpkins, cabbages and onions when another white flaring skirt with a short-sleeved top appears; vegetables become even more when a floor-sweeping gown comes into view with multiple blue vegetable prints on it.
There is also that delicious lobster somewhere in the center of a top. “But the grandiose table needs to be decorated, dear servants!” The command is instantly run with a white skirt suit emblazoned with myriads of spring flowers. “What is for dessert?” A lot of citrus fruits to perk up the mood and sweet ice-cream which is melting, Chop-Chop!
The first part of the Schiaparelli Couture spring 2016 show mainly rendering knee-length skirts with matching tops and boxy jackets teamed with knee-high white boots is soon to be replaced with long gowns with somehow puffed ball bottoms that are at times matched with boxy jackets or else appearing alone. Some of the gowns made of fabric imitating creasy paper are presenting spider net prints stretching across the whole gowns. We are speechlessly amazed at the glimpse of those crocheted parts appearing here and there, but what has a power to be sponged in memories is that olive green crocheted long vest worn over the same shade chiffon frock making the model an amazing creature of deep forests.
The Schiaparelli Couture spring/summer 2016 collection is drawing down the curtain over food zone and is catering to us a range of chiffon diaphanous dresses showing off the body shadow only, with super-intricate layers, ruffled details and the illusion that we are all wrapped with ethereal smoke coming from Mrs. Schiaparelli’s living forever soul.